TURKEY-DO WE HAVE TO GO?

TURKEY-DO WE REALLY HAVE TO GO?

No really-do we have to go? That was the question we all asked; not before we arrived, but when we were about to leave Turkey. Turkey as a destination was truly a remarkable experience that had us hating to leave and wanting more. The mixture of slow (Ankara) and fast (Istanbul) was a perfect combination of contrast as far as style, urban living and political paradigms.

As we arrived in Ankara, we wondered what Turkey would have in store for us. We pondered if this was going to be fulfilling or futile. Well after reading this, you’ll see that Turkey gave us more that we would ever hope for.

We arrived in the Istanbul airport from Paris. We had to connect to Ankara, so Istanbul would have to wait. We got our visa for Turkey on site (15 euros) and got a nice colorful stamp for our passport (sweet). As we walked through the airport, we stuck out like a sore thumb, but it was not uncomfortable. Most of the time, we just got curious looks and then a smile, head nod, a hello or even a wink (don’t ask). We found our gate, but we were about to experience a significant difference in travel from the US-go for what you know boarding. When it’s time to board, the sign flashes and everyone just goes to the gate-no groups, no numbers. It was something to experience. It was like passenger bumper cars trying to get through a gate where the end destination would still be determined by the assigned seats. I stopped trying to figure things out or rationalize things. I am just “going with the flow” as it helps one enjoy the moment.

ANKARA-SMALLER CITY, BIGGER IMPACT

MONDAY

We arrived in Ankara about 50 min later and gathered our bags. We were met at the exit by a Ceylan Akman, Program Associate in the Ankara office for the German Marshall Fund of the US. Ceylan, an intelligent, modern woman with a classic Ingrid Bergman look would continue my streak of experience outstanding city coordinators for this fellowship. We boarded our bus and were whisked away through the traffic on Ankara. As I was looking out the window of the bus, I just notice that once again “I was not in Kansas anymore” as I saw people weave through traffic trying to cross the streets of Ankara. As our journeyed transitioned from outskirts to main district, the hustle and bustle of Ankara was alive and well. From shops, street vendors, cafes or just friends hanging out, Ankara was alive.

We checked into this sleek, modern looking hotel that was a subtle monument to steel, concrete and energy conservation, with the abundant natural light that illuminated the property. The room itself was modern and comfortable with a tasteful bathroom, laid with marble. After getting over our awe, we decided to get into the crowd of Ankara and walk the streets. Walking down the street was an adventure in itself. A funny moment happened as I was walking. We stopped for the ATM and these young men who were working in a restaurant saw me and came out to “observe” me. The youngest one came behind me and stood on this tree rail. I soon discovered they were amazed at my size and height. So I told him as best as I could how tall I was. He just looked in amazement. We continued our walking excursion and for some reason we wanted to cross the street to experience the other side. Now why did we want to do that? Crossing the street in Ankara is like playing Frogger, except you’re the frog trying to avoid the on coming traffic.

We made it back to the hotel and sat for a spell. We couldn’t sit in amazement too long as we were scheduled for a dinner conversation on Trends in Turkish Politics, with Professor Ömer Faruk Gençkaya at this warm restaurant called Tike. Tike is earth-tone heaven for an interior decorator, with subtle walls, bold wood grains accents and hints of green. This décor was reflective of the cuisine, as Özgur Unluhisarcikli, Director of the GMF office in Ankara, who joined us for dinner, explained the vast variety of Turkish dishes we were about to partake. Everyone sung praises about the hummus stating the best ever. I gravitated favorable toward the Turkish salad. In fact, I combined this mixture with a white cheese and this warm, fluffy pita like bread that I was able to cut in half and expose an open, puff pocket. Delight was achieved in one easy pocket.

Throughout our travels in Europe, much of the conversation has always been peppered with Turkey, its candidate status to the European Union and its impact on Europe as a country. Now we get to hear from Turkey itself. The dinner included conversations about the perceptions of Turkey as a Muslim country, how it will contribute to the European Union and how some including some Turks use the secular state status as an excuse to hinder Turkey’s EU membership. During our dinner, two of our colleagues finally joined us due to a delayed flight which caused them to miss the connecting flight. Now our group was complete and the conversation continued. One thing was certain from this conversation; there would not be a right and wrong position because everyone had a different position full of validity and conviction.

TUESDAY

The next day was packed with some wonderful meetings and outings. The first order of the day was to visit the Turkish Parliament for an introduction to the Turkish Political System. The campus for the Turkish capital had a look and feel of a college campus except the governing of a nation took place here. Our visit took place during a Parliament meeting day, so needless to say security was extra tight. After passing the metal detectors, we were taken to the actual Parliament chambers. This chamber was an immaculate white marble with burnt orange furniture. It was a sight to see and more so to be standing in. In fact, it was the same room where President Obama addressed the Turkish government. We were given an overview of the Turkish Parliament by one of the officials of the Parliament who explained the layout, protocols and the various debates that occur in the chamber.



After this informative overview, we then headed to our meeting with an actual member of this Parliament. We met with the Honorable Fatma Şahin, MP, Justice and Development Party and head of its Women Branches. This meeting would began a day that would ultimately remind me that women in general are still treated as subordinates, but that there are dedicated, intelligent and resolute women who will continue the struggle to eradicate this thinking, classification or social practice. MP Şahin talked to us about how they are constantly fighting to ensure the rights of women in Turkey and how they are legislating these changes in Parliament.


Our next stop was to Antikabir-the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the leader of the Turkish War of Independence and the founder and first president of the Turkish Republic. This mausoleum was truly fitting for someone that has contributed so much to the Turkish Republic. It was not just a resting place, but it was a walk through Turkish history. On a sunny day, you can see clear across Ankara in all directions. Our tour guide filled in every blank that the exhibits did not convey, which made the tour of the mausoleum really fulfilling. It was comparable to an American touring Valley Forge.



Next was out outdoor lunch where we had a panel discussion on Turkey, European Union and the United States, A Foreign Policy Assessment. This star studded lunch included Mr. Burak Akçapar, Head of Strategic Planning –Turkish Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Mr. Arno Kirchhof, Political Counselor, German Embassy and Mr. Daniel O’Grady, Political Counselor-US Embassy. As I met each individual, I started to think; where else would I be having a lunch with this group of people talking comparative foreign policy- through the Marshall Memorial Fellowship. The lunch conversation revealed each individual take on foreign relations, particularly from Turkey’s EU candidate status, how this will impact Germany and other EU countries and what this does for US relations with these countries.

After lunch, we headed to our next appoint, which became a real eye opener for me. This appointment was about Gender Issues in Turkey with Flying Broom-a women’s NGO for gender equality. The meeting was with Ürün Güner, the Project Coordinator for Flying Broom and a MMF Alum. Ms. Güner, who is truly knowledgable about the various gender issues in Turkey, began to systematically explain the historical context of these issues, how Flying Broom and other women focused NGO’s in Turkey are addressing them and the work and challenges that still remain. I can honestly say at the end of this meeting I was thinking of the Virginia Slims slogan, “You’ve Come a Long Way Baby!!!”, but I added a phrase “But You Still Got Some Ways to Go.” I say this because if any inequalities exist somewhere, then inequalities exist everywhere. So gender based, racially based, ethnicity, economic, it’s all travesties. So I became more alert to gender based issues because of this visit.

As the day of meetings concluded, we were given a surprise. Our host dinner, was actually a host PARTY!!!! Ms. Güner invited everyone and anyone she knew to her house for an outdoor dinner extravaganza. From Turkish officials, to US and Canadian Embassy staff, everyone was there. I need not tell you that she introduced all of us to the party as the guest of honor. The conversations were diverse and the backdrop of the high hill residence overlooking one of Ankara’s valleys helped set the tone for the evening. I must confess that my most memorable conversation was talking with Ceylan about politics and the art of political discussion. I won’t divulge the conversation itself, but it reminded me that we all have something to offer, we have something to teach and we all have something to learn.

The next day was individual appointment day and then departure for the next city. Surprisingly enough, my appointment actually happened and did not cancel. I meet with Mr. Recep Çakal, Head of Information Society Department. Mr. Çakal talked about his department, the current initiatives in trying to standardize technology platforms in Turkey and some of the organizational challenges in meeting these goals. I learned that no matter where you are, government is government and the challenges inherited with it makes the job “fun”. After this meeting, I departed for the airport. I began to look forward to the next part of this trip. Why? Ankara has welcomed me with open arms. So much, it made me excited to go to Istanbul. Everyone talked about how fast and metropolitan/cosmopolitan Istanbul is compared to Ankara. So I was thinking, if that’s the case and Ankara has been a great stop, then Istanbul is about to be amazing!!!

To see more pictures from Ankara, click ANKARA PICTURES

ISTANBUL-THE URBAN GEM OF TURKEY

WEDNESDAY



After a short flight, we hit the ground (literally) and docked into our gate. What we were docking into was a world away from the world, which is called Istanbul. We were here. It was time to see if everyone’s advice, comments, suggestions and observations were true. We hopped into our van (starting to feel like a band on tour) and headed straight to our hotel. Zipping through the city, we began to notice how busy and populated it is. I particularly noticed that Istanbul has a lot of hills, so it shouldn't be a bad view from most places. This was truly the case with this hotel, as we entered our rooms and dropped our bags in awe. My room had a breathtaking view of Istanbul’s cityscape and the Bosporus Sea in the backdrop. I know you’re not reading this blog for a hotel description, so I’ll get back to the Fellowship.

We had our first meeting in Istanbul in our hotel over lunch with the Bilgi University Center for Migration Research. The conversation centered around the French, German and Turkish Dialogue Project on EU issues. More importantly, it helped us to understand what the behind the scene conversations regarding Turkey’s EU membership efforts and how this organized dialogue is helping to “demystify” the notion of Turkey as an EU member.

Our next meeting was an enlightening meeting to say the least. We had a meeting with Ms. Lina Filiba, the Vice President of the Jewish Community of Turkey. I will be the first to admit that I was ignorant of the fact that a Jewish population existed in this Islamic practicing country. Actually, according to what I found on Wikipedia, the history of the Jews in Turkey covers the 2,400 years that Jews have lived in what is now Turkey. There have been Jewish communities in Asia Minor since at least the 4th century BCE; and many Jews expelled from Spain, the Sephardic Jews, were welcomed to the Ottoman Empire, including regions part of modern Turkey, in the late 15th century. Despite emigration during the 20th century, modern day Turkey continues to have a small Jewish population. Our conversation gave us insight on the current status of Jews in Turkey, how they interact with the local community in Istanbul and how they are dealing with generational challenges within their communities.




After this wonderful meeting, we then headed back to our hotel to freshen up and prepare for our dinner meeting with Dr. Hakan Yilmaz, a professor of political science at Boğaziçi University in Istanbul. In order to get to dinner, we had to venture down this steep, cobble stone road that ended at the Bosporus Sea. We walked half way and entered this undecorated door that didn't advertise much of anything. After walking a couple of flights of stairs, we got to an elevator. Small and compact, this elevator was taking us to a big and open world. As we exited the elevator, all the glory of the Bosporus Sea was in our sight. This restaurant called Leb-i-Derya, was breathtaking in décor, view and taste. The outdoor patio for drinks or the indoor dining for couples or groups alike made this the destination for “hip” in Istanbul. We were whisked away to the next level, which was a private dinning room with the same view and ambiance, except it was ours and ours alone.

As Dr. Yilmaz arrived, we were served a Three-Seeded Tulum Cheese Salad. This salad was impeccable in presentation, taste and balance featuring assorted greens, apple slices, walnuts, strawberries and drizzled with pommegrenadine vinaigrette and fried tulum cheese coated with three types of seeds. After polling some of my colleagues, it is safe to say that this was one of the best salads many of us have ever had. Only a hearty conversation of how religion and politics in Turkey would make this evening more fulfilling. Be careful what you wish for, as Dr. Yilmaz gave us just that. We discussed the difference of a secular state and how the lack of separation of church and state impacts the equitable governance of Turkey.

After taking in all that food and conversation, we walked it all off by strolling through the markets of Istanbul. The atmosphere of the cafes, people and sights reminded me of Bourbon Street in New Orleans. After walking the night away, we headed back to our hotel to discover that our hotel has a magnificent outdoor, roof top bar with a panoramic view of Istanbul. So we ventured up there to talk about our day and just enjoy the moment of being in Istanbul.




THURSDAY

Our next day was packed with a balance attack of business, education and shopping. We started off with a meeting with the American Business Forum in Turkey (ABFT). This is a US Chamber of Commerce affiliate group serving to improve the business investment environment for US companies in Turkey. Here we heard from such companies as Hilton Hotel, Cushman Wakefield and AIG Investments to name a few. We discussed what the current international business climate is in Turkey and the pros and cons of investing within Istanbul versus focusing on other areas in Turkey.

Our next destination would not only remind me of who benefits from our efforts in education, but re energized me as far as professional purpose is concerned. We visited the Educational Volunteers Foundation of Turkey (TEGV). This is a Turkish NGO providing non-formal educational opportunities for children and youth in need throughout Turkey.

We first had a presentation about the organization by some of the staff members. After talking about the state of education in Turkey, some of the needed reforms and how NGOs have been an instrumental advocate for these reforms. We then toured the facilities, which had a school like atmosphere. We were fortunate to see some of the kids in their classes, interacting with their teachers and one another. As we visited the classes, they looked on with a child like curiosity, but then just burst into salutations.

This part of the trip really got to me. We stopped at the outdoor pavilion where there were four boys sitting there. I walked over to them to speak and before I could say a word, one extended out his fist to me to give me a fist pump. Something we used to do in the neighborhood, on the football field or basketball court has transcended to an NGO in Turkey. We then took a group picture and continued our tour, the four boys caught up with me. The one that gave me the fist bump said to me “50 Cent”. At first I thought he wanted fifty cents, but as I listened, he was talking about the artist. Sure enough, it was translated to me that he wanted to know if I knew of 50 Cent. Here again, something that started in the streets of the South Bronx has penetrated the streets of Turkey.

We walked and talked more about Hip-Hop in general. As we walked and talked, I just noticed how excited they were getting and how their eyes would light up by the mere fact we were conversing about Hip-Hop. What I didn’t notice was that it was time for us to go. I didn’t want to go and they didn’t want me to leave. I decided to take a picture of these four boys. Why? Because of them, it reminded me not only why I work in government and education, but why I fell in love with Hip-Hop in the first place. So to repay the gift they gave me, I decided to make each of them a CD of Hip-Hop, so they too can possibly be inspired to reach for their dreams because that’s one of the forces of Hip-Hop; reaching for your dreams. As I rode off, I realized that we all have a purpose on this Earth and if nothing else, it’s to have an impact and to be impacted.

We headed back the hotel for lunch and to freshen up. The afternoon would promise to be blueand bizarre as we were scheduled to go to the Grand Bazzar, the Hagia Sophia, and the Blue Mosque. I would sit this afternoon out to catch up on some much-needed sleep, but the rest of the gang would forge ahead. I would meet the group later on at the Blue Mosque. This mosque was magnificent in every shape form and fashion. The blue bricks were unique to see and to be in such a magnificent place of worship. We would top off this evening with a boat cruise of the Bosporus Sea. This boat trip was something you would dream of, except we were living it. To sea the blue waters from the hotel and to glide across it at a purposeless pace made a big difference in the experience. To see Istanbul from the Bosporus made Istanbul that much more beautiful. After taking numerous pictures, I had to pull out my iPod and get lost in the moment. Dave Brubeck’s “Take Five” and George Benson’s “Breezin” would be in order.



I thought we would return to our original port, but little did I know our destination would be where we would be dining for the evening-Eftalya Fish Restaurant. This bi-level seafood restaurant with a view of the Bosporus sea boated both scenery and the “be seen” clientele. We were joined by some of the Turkish alums of the Marshall Memorial Fellowship program, which offered the dinner a good compliment of conversation.

As I sat and ate all the wonderful food that was brought before us, I realized that this fantasy would be coming to a close. I sat and watched the bridge change colors at a blink of an eye. I also realized that my perceptions of Turkey changed in a blink of an eye as well. I just realized that I didn’t want to leave.



The next morning, we trickled into the hotel restaurant for breakfast with a melancholy look on our faces. It was evident that we all had enjoyed Turkey to the point that we didn’t want to leave. Ceylan walked into the restaurant, but we didn’t recognize her because she had let her hair down and with letting it down it revealed a different side that I never would have noticed-a more relaxed, radiant and different aspect that I haven’t experienced. It was a perfect metaphor to my experience in Turkey. If you just let your pre-determined guard down, Turkey will surprise you and captivate your imagination. I promise you that you wouldn’t want to leave either.

Thanks Turkey!!!

To see more pictures from Istanbul, click ISTANBUL PICTURES